Everybody Goes to Mateo's

In almost every Ernest Hemingway novel, there is a small restaurant or bar that is off the beaten track and where the waiters know all the regular customers. I always thought that it would be cool to have a "regular place" with about 6 tables and run by a guy and his wife.

But the concept seemed to be more fictional and distant than anything else in books of EH. After all, I come from the USA where you find the same restaurants in every city. (Applebees, Outback, Olive Garden, Don Pablo's and so on.) The same decor and the same menu and the same uniforms no matter which city you go to. Sometimes, there are three of four instances of a franchise in the same city. Moreover, to survive a restaurant has to have 50 tables and churn people through the full meal in less than an hour.

One of the most enjoyable aspects of this year in Strasbourg has been the restaurants. In Europe, by and large, you don't find large franchises dominating the market. The majority of eating places seem to be small (10 to 20 tables) establishments run by a family or extended family. Each restaurant is different. When you are seated at the table you are pretty much expected to stay the night. A normal meal will last 2 to 3 hours.

And the restaurants are not so sterile either. Often the human element shows through. The hostess might be angry at her husband the cook or the waitress might be a little drunk or the chef might not be cooking something on the menu because he just doesn't feel like it.

Pizzeria Mateo's has become the "regular place". This restaurant has the poetic address of 30 Rue des Juifs (translated = street of the Jews...the naming of streets in Strasbourg occurred before political correctness was invented). Mateo's is run by Mateo, who is an Italian come to France to make his life. On some nights he is helped by his wife. On others, he is helped by another lady who brings here 6 year old daughter along to help. They are nice people who remember what you like to have as a pre-dinner drink.

You just need to remember that Mateo does not open on Sunday night or Wednesday night. Also, he did not open on nights when the Italian soccer team was playing in the world cup. And he closes the restaurant for 3 weeks in August when he goes on vacation. When he is open, the lasagna is the most popular item on the menu. However, when it is hot outside it is hot in the kitchen, so he doesn't make Lasagna during July. Unless you call ahead and ask him nicely.

Picture below shows Mateo himself besides yours truly. Following that are pictures of the group enjoying a dinner at Mateo's after the day at Monkey Mountain.