The Street Market in Our Neighborhood

Street markets are a popular way to shop for food in Strasbourg, and in France, and actually in most of Europe. I've made mention of them from time to time....especially noting that you can measure the change of seasons by the changing of produce in the farmers' stands. There is at least one street market somewhere in Strasbourg on every day of the week excepting Sunday. In our neighborhood there is a market at Place de Bordeax (about 1 1/2 blocks away) every Tuesday and Saturday morning.

On market days, the vendors start setting up at about 5:30 or 6:00 in the mornings. The regular vendors have trailers that they tow into place. Some of the trailers have sides that open up to create a mini-storefront. This is the arrangement for the cheese man shown in the opening photo and also for the butcher shown immediately above. Others pull out tables from the trailer and then stretch an awning over them to get shelter from the sun or rain. Such is the case with the vegatable farmers shown above or the olive peddler shown below. (The olive peddler is one of our favorite stands. Every week we talk about going down to see "olive boy".)The street markets are more that just a chance to buy and sell. They are part of the larger social order of city living. The market helps define the neighborhood. You are more likely to see your neighbors at the market than you are in your apartment. You have to thread your way through the people - young and old - who stop in the middle of the sidewalks to make their weekly conversation with neighbors. It seems that people want to talk more than shop.

And actually, a good way to meet people is to take your dog with you to the market. People are looking for an excuse to talk and the dog provides the ideal opening.

To make a purchase, you have to go through a ritual that is almost as sacred as any religious ceremony. The vendor says bonjour first. You say bonjour second. Then they ask what you would like. It's best if you don't answer them precisely...but rather give them a chance to show off their expertise. For example, with the butcher you might say "I want to make a pork dish tonight for the family". And then he will tell you everything he has that is pork and what is good this week and what is new and what he personally is eating tonight. Then you pick something. When he asks how much, you say.."oh, enough for 4 people". He will figure out how much is required. And the amazing thing is that he will never rip you off.

Next, the vendor will ask "avec ce-ci?". They all say this. Literally it means "with this?" and is the standard way of asking if you want anything else. If you want another item then you loop through the ritual again. If not, you tell them that's all. Then they figure out how much you owe them. When you pay, it is good form to lay the money in the little tray (put there for that purpose) rather than to touch their hand. When they return the change they will put in the tray rather than to touch you.

Then they hand you the bag. You say thanks, or "merci". They will then respond with something like "de rien" or "c'est moi" or "service"...which are all different ways of saying "oh no, I should be thanking you". Then they say good-bye (au revoir) or good day (bon journée) or they say both just to cover all the bases. Then you say good-bye...which releases them to go to the next customer.